[demoncamber]

I'm looking for either a replacement Lite-on 93450c pcb or any other version Lite-on PCB that would work in my drive, or someone that thinks they can resolder and fix my traces/PCB.

I will trade my PCB if you want it! I'm sure it can be fixed, and it's already flashed with LT.


Ok so.... I apparently cannot solder for crap, and messed up my 93450c board while trying to repair a few trace cuts after desoldering a Maximus Litekey.

Before:

After:


Now, I just bought a 74850c as the replacement drive.

I have the key from my original 93450c and I'm planning on just using the 74850c as the new drive.

But, I was wondering, is it possible to swap the 74850c PCB into my brand new 93450c? Would it work?

I only ask because my 934 is practically brand new, with hardly any hours on it, the 74850c I have no idea how old it is and how many hours or abuse it has taken.

It was working fine last night, then today, eject button was acting odd and it would spin up really fast and eject really fast leaving the disk spinning in the tray as it ejected. Xbox threw up an E64 code.

I will ship out the board only for cheapest/easiest transaction.

[JOCKz]

7, 8 and 9 series boards are all the same mate, just different firmwares. You can either swap the boards or just spoof your key to the 7 series drive and flash. Protip for soldering; use flux

[demoncamber]

I had rosin core solder with flux in it, You know it did work pretty well, it's just that I obviously need more practice... This was my first ever trace soldering/cutting/scraping..

So this 74850c that I just bought you are saying I could swap right into my 93450c no problems?

When I flash it should I use the LT 74850c FW or the 93450c LT FW?

[JOCKz]

just follow the JF tutorial m8. It tells you every little detail.

http://jungleflasher.net/downloads.html

[Cadibiagio]

I would think you would use the 9 series firmware on the board cause if you don't you may be banned of xbox live for having an improper firmware. Not entirely sure.

[[AD]]

That board doesn't look too bad. Use some desolder braid to get all the solder off, and try again with little solder and some kynar wire.

If you practice on something other than that board first you will get better at it.

-=AD=-

[Martin3912]

omg thats bad

[demoncamber]

Most of the mess you see is just flux, and the dark parts are just black sharpie colored over any part of the copper ground I did not want the solder to stick to. Under the solder is really thin copper tape, looks just like a trace really, I scratched off more trace at each end of the tape and soldered over the copper and mated it with the original copper tape, theoretically it should have worked, and it did two nights ago, but then upon starting it up yesterday, it wouldnt eject and spit the tray out real fast with the disc spinning real fast....

I may attempt it again tonight, desolder it all and just redo it really carefully, but honestly, I'd rather ship it out to a pro that can really do it right.

Sad thing is, it's flashed with LT all ready to go just this is holding me back.

I bought the 7 series for $40 just in case my drive is actually damaged. That way I'll have a spare right away, or just sell it for basically what I bought it for..

I heard that the boards are identical for the 7-9 series, so I can just swap the board into my 9series drive and flash it with my 9 series LT FW with my key.

[demoncamber]

Just a little side note.... Does anyone know if a black sharpie is conductive?

[Martin3912]

no i dont think so